snapshots

Concert played by musicians from Moria and Karatape camps

An open air concert with musicians from Moria and Karatape refugee camps. A field trip with the School of Peace to a hiking trail in the mountains. Introducing meditation techniques to our art/play therapy programs with the kids. I’m sitting in my apartment with all the widows open, looking out onto the Mytilene port and trying to process everything that I got to be a part of this week. It’s a strange day today; the typical 85 degree heat and relentless sun has been replaced by heavy rains and cool humidity. It’s eerily quiet on the busy street outside my window, but I’m not sure if it’s the weather or just the typical speed for a Sunday morning.

In IsraAID’s children’s art/play therapy programs, we’ve started going beyond just fun and games and introduced psychosocial support. Whether it’s having the kids draw their “happy place”, playing games that activate empathy, teaching techniques for calming down like breathing or meditation, or explaining how coloring mandalas can be a way of relaxing and easing stress, we’re trying to provide basic tools for the kids to be able to regulate their emotions and build up their resilience.

One of the moments during our program this past week that made us all take a pause was when we are establishing the classroom rules. We asked the children, as they sat on plywood benches in a semi-circle, what are some rules that you can think of that would make you feel safe in the classroom? We had expected suggestions along the lines of “no fighting”, “listen to the teacher”, etc. But the first student to raise his hand, one of the most rambunctious and mischievous of the bunch, said thoughtfully, “I don’t think we need any rules because I already feel safe in the classroom”. Another boy raised his hand to say that he also felt safe here because he had recently heard that a school had been bombed in Afghanistan. In other words, despite all the challenges, we had accomplished one of the many things that we had hoped; to create a safe space. Like our program director here in Lesvos put it, “Most of the time, these kids don’t feel safe. Living in Moria, that’s just the reality. So for two hours a week, we are giving them safety, we are giving them normalcy. We aren’t going to fix Moria. But we’re going to do our best to fix everything else.”

Children from the School of Peace cool down from their hike in a stream
My face = what it’s like supervising this trip, in a nutshell

I was also fortunate enough to be a part of a couple other things this week: a field trip with the students of the School of Peace and an open air concert performed by musicians trained in the Moria and Karatape camps. There was one moment on the field trip that was completely surreal to me: after arriving in the mountains and going though an activity circuit that included yoga, tag, and storytelling, we hiked with the kids until we finally arrived at a stream. In a flurry of movement, suddenly there were tens of Syrian, Afghan, Iranian, Iraqi, Congolese and Angolan kids splashing, screaming, and jumping in the freezing water. It was insanely fun (+ absolutely exhausting) and I felt pretty lucky to be there with them.

no one leaves home unless home is the mouth of a shark

Bruno Mars’ voice suddenly fizzled and reemerged as the notes of an oud—that’s how close Lesvos is to Turkey; at certain points on the island, even the radio stations and cell services switch to Turkish ones. This time we’re driving to the School of Peace, an education initiative that provides daily classes to refugee children in their mother tongue, whether it’s French, Farsi, or Arabic.

While IsraAID no longer runs the school (they exited in May 2019), they still provide support and retain a close partnership with volunteers from the Hashomer Hatzair youth movement along with local community volunteers who keep the school running. And in my extra time outside of the programs run by IsraAID, I’ve decided to help out as well.

Let me start by saying this: the School of Peace—with its rainbow-painted plywood walls and classrooms-named-after-animals—radiates positivity like nothing else within 5-kilometers of the Moria refugee camp. It’s a remarkable place; you close your eyes and you can actually hear joy: laughter, a soccer ball kicked against the wall, a jump rope hitting the soil, the loud chatter of children. The crisis does not permeate this space, at least not overtly. That day, beyond cutting fruits for snack-time and supervising the hectic play during break periods, I helped lead activities in the class containing kids from the Congo and Angola. Since some students spoke only French, some only Portuguese, and some both, I was able to give instructions in both languages, ensuring that everyone was on the same page.

Children from the Farsi-speaking class practice coloring

The first activity involved envisioning one’s journey after leaving the School of Peace. One of the more talkative students, David*, revealed to me his plans of becoming a concert pianist and a doctor. Dante wanted to become a famous youtuber and use his videos to discuss soccer and video games. Marianne, who couldn’t have been older than 10, told me that she hoped to learn English, but that what she wanted most was to receive her “white card”, an infinitely valuable document that states that she is a legal asylum seeker. The class ended when the head teacher blasted the Macarena from a dusty boombox and, as though on cue, all the students pushed aside their chairs and started dancing with complete abandon. And BOY could they dance. Seeing their resilience was incredibly motivating, and I couldn’t help leaving the school feeling a little lighter.

A child’s drawing depicts a boat crossing the sea from Afghanistan

And it was with this hope and optimism that I was faced with one of the more difficult moments of this experience thus far, which was visiting the lifejacket graveyard. Located on the north end of the island (where most of the crossings occur from Turkey), the lifejacket graveyard is essentially a dumping site where adult and child life vests, rubber dinghies, and clothing are discarded as refugees move on from the shores in search of food, clothing, shelter, and a better life. It’s also absolutely shocking, especially to imagine that all the children that I’ve worked with have, without exception, undergone the traumatic experience of fleeing for their lives on one of those boats, in one of those lifejackets. And as much as those lifejackets are a testament to those who survive the journey, they’re also a heartbreaking reminder of those who don’t. And that’s when it becomes painfully clear that no parent would put their child on that boat if there was any alternative, and that I cannot even begin to understand the amount of courage that goes into making that decision. Or as British Somali poet Warsan Shire put it:

“no one leaves home unless
home is the mouth of a shark
you only run for the border
when you see the whole city running as well”

*Names have been changed to protect students’ privacy